I like Bread

Last weekend we went north to celebrate Nicole’s graduation from Mills College in Oakland. She now has a Masters degree in Public Policy and I have no doubt she will be one of the new “masters” of the universe. She's an exceptional young woman with a bright future ahead. We’re very proud of her.

Of course, as always, visiting an area is an opportunity to either revisit favorite bakeries, in this case Arizmendi’s, or try/discover new places. We had a lovely celebratory dinner out at Flora, a cool new place in downtown Oakland chosen by Bonnie, Jeff and Nicole. The atmosphere was fun and the food was great. But I have to save my accolades for the breakfast place we went to on Sunday morning before leaving town. The Brown Sugar Kitchen, also in Oakland kind of tucked away in an industrial part of town. Who knew? Well, the locals know of course.

There are many things to like about the place but I can only concentrate on one major thing because, well, I like bread. The bread/bakery products were amazing and any descriptions I give here will not do justice to them. I will single out the ones I either personally ordered or shared. Beignets. I have had them before and they tend to be round and deep-fried. In the best instances they are light and airy and very wonderful. These were wonderful and nothing like what I had previously enjoyed. They were plainer and lighter and flatter. Served with what seemed like homemade berry jam, they were perfect and combined with a good cappuccino or latte would have been enough for me. But there was more! Buttermilk biscuits, flaky and flavorful and though the one I had was the plain one I saw they also had a bacon/cheddar version.. Steve had a waffle that was the most light waffle I have ever seen which they managed to achieve while still making it full of flavor. There were other really good things of course (cheesy grits, sweet potato pie) but for me the bread type products were the best and most amazing because they’re always my favorites. If I lived there I would probably pop in regularly and take some of those bakery items to go because I like bread.

When I think back it seems like my first exposure to food was through bakeries. Oh yeah, of course I had other food contact before then, but not like that, not with any real awareness. I think I found out how much good stuff was out there through bakeries. Do I have to explain? If so, you may not be a bakery lover. Anyway, ever since that childhood revelation - no surprise – bakeries are top on my list as good places to visit. I say visit because sometimes it’s enough to just wander through them and enjoy the sights and smells. A good bakery should smell like something, buttery pastry, cinnamon, chocolate, or something savory like a baguette. Otherwise, how can you trust it?

I take away (sometimes literally) something from every bakery I have been in. my first exposure to croissants, for example, was at the Renaissance Bakery in Laguna Beach. This must have been in the 70’s and croissants were not common here in Orange County, or maybe in most of the US. Now of course, you can get them at Albertsons and in bulk at Costco. The Renaissance was a coffee house way pre-Starbucks but what I believe they and other chains have been modeled after. A place with comfortable seating, a cozy feel, people sitting around enjoying espresso, tea or pastries while reading the newspaper or talking intently with friends. Sadly, Laguna no longer has the Renaissance, but it does have a couple of Starbucks, wouldn’t you know?

There’s a place in Santa Barbara that has apricot bars the likes of which I have not seen anywhere else. And Lord knows I’ve tried a few. I’ve looked at some recipe versions and they are nothing like these which are lighter and less sweet than the typical ones around. I recently decided that I am going to request their recipe next time I’m in town. The bakery is Our Daily Bread, in case anyone is listening. They also have something called a spicy roll which is a round sourdough type roll filled with spicy tomato and cheese. Steve requires at least one to take home or even eat in the car on the way home every time we pass through Santa Barbara.

Years ago Belmont Shore’s Naples Peninsula had a little spot called Café con Leche. The folks that owned it tried different food selections but always had some sort of lovely pastries to offer, to have with your café con leche (coffee with milk) or other coffees or, if you chose, Mexican hot chocolate. Their search for the right combination of pastries and food was doomed from the start, alas. Not because of the quality, which was excellent, but because of the location which was way down almost at the foot of the peninsula, tucked away off the beaten track. I personally loved that about it, but no place can survive with only a few local fans, no matter how dedicated. Before their demise though, Lionel, one of the owners, invented a recipe for a three-berry scone. Not an original concept, I know. The secret though is in the details. This particular version combines an oatmeal cookie-like buttery texture with lots of juicy berries in the center. Tastes great and I even convince myself that it’s good for me, what with the oatmeal and all. Eventually they gave up on the location but by then the scones had developed a following and Lionel was delivering them to a handful of small coffee places in Long Beach. I loved those scones. Well, imagine my surprise and delight to come across Lionel some years later at a Famers Market, selling not only those scones, but granola and cookies under the name of The Scone Age. I don’t know how far-flung the empire is but I wouldn’t be surprised if you find a vendor at your local FM. If you do, try a scone, you’ll be hooked.

Bakeries come and go but one that has stayed in business for the last 30 odd years, fortunately for me is a place named C’est Si Bon. And it is, good that is. C’est Si Bon is located in Newport Beach just off west Coast Highway, so not an immediately obvious location. I don’t remember how I found them but after I did I became a daily customer. They were right on my way so my habit was to pick up a cappuccino and pastry or muffin and take it into the office every morning. The guys that started the place were so committed to the French concept that all the counter employees spoke French. Not were French, just spoke it being, I assumed, students who liked polishing the language. That added to the fun of being there but really wasn’t the main act. The best thing is they were one of the few places that had, and still have, a daily supply of brioche, along with some of the best croissants outside of France. Now, years later, they no longer all speak French, but the good stuff remains. They still have brioches and croissants, along with fantastic scones,desserts and some of the best sandwiches around.

It’s probably obvious I could go on and on but instead of waxing eloquent on each and every place I will give a quick list titled

Bakeries I Have Loved.

Provence Boulangerie in Belmont Shore, Ca. I have to admit initially it was primarily for Olivier, the then-owner who epitomized the Gallic style. He had a large noble nose, long flowing hair, a beautiful French accent and the lovely style to match- he was gorgeous! Okay, the croissants and pastries were great too. Around 1989 he introduced us to what was still a new concept to us and in general – Panini-style sandwiches. His were made with a chunk of fresh baguette, some good cheese like Brie, prosciutto, fresh farmer’s market tomatoes and basil. I can almost taste it now. Stopping at the Boulangerie on my way to work for a double cap was my daily ritual for several years.

The French Corner Bakery in Cambria, Ca. for their really good bread of all kinds. One time they had great bollilos – a Mexican version of baguette – but theirs were a bit sweeter and so good with a little butter and a good cappuccino, which they also had. Both surprised and gratified me since the area, for the most part, seems to be popular with tourists that like barbecue.

D’Angelos Bakery in Santa Barbara, Ca. also has great bread (sage and onion) along with marvelous pastries like raisin rolls and lovely desserts. They also serve a very nice breakfast and have a good patio.

Arizmendi's Bakery in Emeryville, Ca which is related to The Cheese Board in Berkeley. Don’t be fooled by the name, they have some of the most original pastries around but my favorite at both spots are the brioche knots for which I might consider relocating. Fortunately since my daughter lives in the area I can get my fix by visiting from time to time.

Pearl Bakery, Portland, Or
I’ve been to Portland only once and during those 4 days observed that it has a lot to offer. The Pearl Bakery is only one of those things of course but it was enough for me. I particularly remember their – again! – brioche. They had really good chunky cookies and a sandwich that set the sandwich standard for me. It consisted of rich multi-grain walnut bread which held sliced pears, gorgonzola and arugula. Wow! That was years ago and I’m sure that they have added other equally good things but for me that would be enough.

And last but not least, my neighborhood Pain du Monde which has three locations within my immediate area in Newport Beach. They have really great strong coffee and pastries too numerous to list but I will mention the berry scones and raisin/walnut buns which I particularly like. Fortunately for me one of their locations is only blocks from my house so I can easily incorporate them into my morning routine. Like all the places I have mentioned, it is locally owned, which I prefer. The young women who work there are cheery, personable and friendly, something that is always desirable with your morning coffee.

I continue to check out great bakeries wherever I go, and always, always try something. Some people explore wine, or museums, or great monuments, I like bread.