Life Goes On
In the last week or so I have been occupied by attending a funeral, and by cooking for friends. These two concepts are not as unrelated as you might think. The death of an extended relative was, as they say, expected. Nonetheless, it was sad, but seemingly part of the cycle of life. Somehow I seem to have reached a point in life where I am seeing more of these types of occurrences; deaths and various family tragedies. It seems soon to have these things be happening but maybe I am just fortunate in that I have not had that much experience with that during my lifetime. My parents died some years ago but thoughtlessly I considered it logical because they were OLD. That’s what happens when you’re old. We’re not old and yet we are seeing that around us. Perhaps it’s part of aging – getting used to things like illness, disabilities, and death gradually. After all, Boomers belief to the contrary, no one gets out alive.
But an antidote for all these sad things is cooking. And cooking for friends is particularly special. Food is, we acknowledge, life affirming. Maybe more than that; life giving.
So last weekend we invited friend Bill for an overnight stay. He lives just far enough away that driving home after dinner and wine drinking is possible but not advisable. Along with Bill we invited our neighbor Larry and next door neighbor Caroline. This made for an interesting mix of personalities and ages. Bill is an LA Westside Liberal; Larry is an OC conservative, although we know no one is 100% one thing or another, thank goodness. Caroline is an older woman who has lived a full life and is an interesting person because of that.
I had it in my mind to fix a pasta dish recipe that I have had for years, and I always enjoy it, which was the primary incentive. And it is one of those dishes that reflect the season well, including as it does, lots of summer vegetables. As the seasons change, I try to make one or two recipes that take advantage of the bounty of the time of the year. It’s hard to let a summer go by without making at least one tomato tart and one apricot galette. Not this time but soon, I hope.
The weather behaved enough for us to dine out in the patio. We have lately been plagued with an extension of our “May Gray” and “June Gloom”. As far as I know no one had yet figured out a name for the July marine layer but I’m sure sooner or later one of those TV weather anchors will. However it was pleasant enough and after accompanying our starter with some Mumm’s champagne that Bill brought we didn’t think too much about the weather. Our starter was a charcuterie plate that Steve assembled along with some thin breadsticks, marcona almonds and miscellaneous olives. He also put together a delicious and light salad of arugula, pears, asiago cheese and toasted walnuts – heavenly! Since Rose’ seems to be that wine of the moment, we decided to try some with our main course. The wine was flavorful and pretty to look at and went well with the dinner.
Ahh the pasta. This pasta dish has a lovely presentation, topped as it is, with chopped fresh tomatoes and basil. The vegetables are pretty basic vegs but since they proliferate this time of year I always assume they are at their most flavorful. Since I do not have a garden I make sure I get them at my Farmer's Market. I couldn’t help including a couple of heirloom tomatoes into the tomato mix which gave them an additional attraction.
Everyone seemed to really enjoy the pasta and the flavorful way veggies were included. I always love it and this time was no exception. I may have been extra generous with the garlic and think it really added a lot to the flavor, as garlic is wont to do. The presentation is lovely with the colors of the veggies and the red and green of the tomatoes and basil. And it is surprisingly light.
Ligurian Style Spaghetti with zucchini, carrots and chopped fresh tomato.
4 plum tomatoes, seeded and chopped
¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon chopped fresh basil leaves
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, pressed or finely minced
1 small onion, cut in half and thinly sliced
3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into small julienne strips
3 medium zucchini, ends discarded and cut into small julienned strips
3 yellow summer squash, ends discarded and cut into small julienne strips
1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus extra for seasoning
1 lb dry spaghetti or linguine
Freshly grated parmesan cheese
In a small bowl combine the tomatoes with 1 teaspoon of the basil, 1 tablespoon of the parsley and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Set aside
Heat the remaining 1/3 cup olive oil in a medium size skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic, onion and carrot, salt to taste. Cook, stirring frequently until the carrots start getting soft, around 10 minutes. Add the zucchini and summer squash; salt to taste and continue cooking 10 minutes or longer. Turn off the heat, stir in remaining basil and parsley, cover and set aside.
Meanwhile bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat, add the salt and the spaghetti, cook, stirring frequently until the pasta is tender but firm, al dente, according to package directions.
Drain the pasta, add to the skillet with the vegetables, toss well to combine. Add salt to taste. Serve in individual preheated bowls. Top each serving with some of the tomato mixture, serve with parmesan.
This makes 4 -6 servings.
Make ahead -The vegetables can be cooked earlier in the day and heated up when the pasta is cooked.
Friday, July 30, 2010
Monday, May 31, 2010
Memorial Day musings
and Mothers' Day past
And I am a mother. I am a mother of the type who could do without the holiday, viewing it as a Hallmark- invented day. My children (or as someone once said, “I don’t have children, I have adults”) are located a distance away so the day is not really significant for me. That said, I have fond memories of, as an adult, spending the day with my mother in celebration. And, if truth be known, also have fun and amusing memories of my children doing the breakfast in bed thing when they were maybe 5, 6 years old. Thoughts of those times still make me smile; undercooked sausage, overcooked eggs, soggy toast. Like recipes, those experiences are more than the sum of their parts. There is great joy in the memories.
Moms are not supposed to cook on Mother’s Day as we are to be treated ceremoniously. This has less impact when kids are grown and cooking becomes pretty optional anyway. Still, dinner out is the tradition. I believe that Mother’s Day is the biggest restaurant day of the year, just behind Valentine’s Day.
A couple of weeks ago at the actual holiday for one moment I thought of doing some cooking. There are some recipes that come to my attention that just don’t feel appropriate for the two of us alone. Too much food, or fat and calories, or perhaps that amounts to the same thing. But recipe curiosity requires an occasion to share the dish, and here it was. Mother’s Day and a family get together. The plan was to go to Steve’s mom’s house and have a celebration there. I originally thought to help in the preparation and offered to make a dish -the new recipe!
It was not the sort of thing that I normally could get excited about. Maybe it was just the challenge. I already have a corn pudding recipe that I have in the past verbally slighted because it seems so ordinary. Yet, everyone who has ever tasted it loves it. It’s very popular, and I like popularity as much as the next person.
But corn pudding is not something I look for yet more versions of.
However, in reading a recent book, a food memoir The Gastronomy of Marriage; a memoir of Food and Love by michelle Maisto, I came upon her corn pudding recipe, with the explanation of how effortless it was. Then, coincidentally while still reading the book, I was visiting with friend Dina, and mentioned the recipe from the book, upon which she said “oh, that’s like the corn casserole recipe I have” and sure enough, it was similar except for the addition of sour cream and a few small differences. So now I have a conundrum; which one to try, if either? Well, it was clear to me that I needed to try both just to compare. Mother’s day seemed like the ideal These days we frequently spend a holiday like this with Steve’s mom, who is still going relatively strong at the age of 92. In years past it has been an occasion to take her out to dinner. Never on the actual day though, we try to celebrate the day or so prior to avoid the crowds and the “special” menu. This year she and sister Therese decided to have a family dinner at her house which really makes sense.
Then, as it turned out, events precluded me from making either one for the occasion. I did not, however, take this as a sign that there were too many things working against this dish and to just give up on it. No, it just seemed to me that this recipe must be made in its new incarnation and it appears to be a weeknight treat just for Steve and I. Steve actually likes the original corn pudding because as I said, everyone does. Really, when I think of it something that is this basic probably should be a weeknight meal.
So even though I first became intrigued by the idea of the “jiffy”version through the book and therefore could have done the Gastronomy of Marriage recipe , I decided to try my friend Dina’s first on a recent Tuesday evening. It was, shall I say, interesting. Actually it was pretty easy and a little more substantial than my original corn pudding. Was it better? Or better enough to throw my original recipe aside and switch loyalty? No. But it is basic and good. I imagine that if these versions were the first I had tried I might be more enthusiastic about them.
Aunt Bev's Corn Casserole from Dina
Preheat oven to 400
1 can whole kernel corn*
1 can cream style corn
1 box "Jiffy" corn muffin mix
1 cup sour cream
½ stick butter, melted
Mix the corn, sour cream, melted butter, and finally add the muffin mix until just combined
Bake at 400 degrees for about 30- 45 minutes.
A casserole dish turns out like a souffle; an 8 x 11 pan turns out somewhat firmer. (Annie, I use the casserole dish)
(* I used 16 oz pkg frozen whole kernel corn, thawed)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Corn pudding from the Gastronomy of Marriage
2 eggs
16 oz can whole kernel corn
1 16 oz. can cream style corn
1 box "Jiffy" corn muffin mix
1/2 stick butter, melted
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a medium size bowl beat the eggs and then add the corn, creamed corn, butter and muffin mix. Stir until just combined.
Bake in 8” X 8” dish for 20 to 25 minutes until the top is golden and an inserted toothpick comes out clean.
Either or all appropriate for Memorial Day/long weekend celebration.
Remember and enjoy
and Mothers' Day past
And I am a mother. I am a mother of the type who could do without the holiday, viewing it as a Hallmark- invented day. My children (or as someone once said, “I don’t have children, I have adults”) are located a distance away so the day is not really significant for me. That said, I have fond memories of, as an adult, spending the day with my mother in celebration. And, if truth be known, also have fun and amusing memories of my children doing the breakfast in bed thing when they were maybe 5, 6 years old. Thoughts of those times still make me smile; undercooked sausage, overcooked eggs, soggy toast. Like recipes, those experiences are more than the sum of their parts. There is great joy in the memories.
Moms are not supposed to cook on Mother’s Day as we are to be treated ceremoniously. This has less impact when kids are grown and cooking becomes pretty optional anyway. Still, dinner out is the tradition. I believe that Mother’s Day is the biggest restaurant day of the year, just behind Valentine’s Day.
A couple of weeks ago at the actual holiday for one moment I thought of doing some cooking. There are some recipes that come to my attention that just don’t feel appropriate for the two of us alone. Too much food, or fat and calories, or perhaps that amounts to the same thing. But recipe curiosity requires an occasion to share the dish, and here it was. Mother’s Day and a family get together. The plan was to go to Steve’s mom’s house and have a celebration there. I originally thought to help in the preparation and offered to make a dish -the new recipe!
It was not the sort of thing that I normally could get excited about. Maybe it was just the challenge. I already have a corn pudding recipe that I have in the past verbally slighted because it seems so ordinary. Yet, everyone who has ever tasted it loves it. It’s very popular, and I like popularity as much as the next person.
But corn pudding is not something I look for yet more versions of.
However, in reading a recent book, a food memoir The Gastronomy of Marriage; a memoir of Food and Love by michelle Maisto, I came upon her corn pudding recipe, with the explanation of how effortless it was. Then, coincidentally while still reading the book, I was visiting with friend Dina, and mentioned the recipe from the book, upon which she said “oh, that’s like the corn casserole recipe I have” and sure enough, it was similar except for the addition of sour cream and a few small differences. So now I have a conundrum; which one to try, if either? Well, it was clear to me that I needed to try both just to compare. Mother’s day seemed like the ideal These days we frequently spend a holiday like this with Steve’s mom, who is still going relatively strong at the age of 92. In years past it has been an occasion to take her out to dinner. Never on the actual day though, we try to celebrate the day or so prior to avoid the crowds and the “special” menu. This year she and sister Therese decided to have a family dinner at her house which really makes sense.
Then, as it turned out, events precluded me from making either one for the occasion. I did not, however, take this as a sign that there were too many things working against this dish and to just give up on it. No, it just seemed to me that this recipe must be made in its new incarnation and it appears to be a weeknight treat just for Steve and I. Steve actually likes the original corn pudding because as I said, everyone does. Really, when I think of it something that is this basic probably should be a weeknight meal.
So even though I first became intrigued by the idea of the “jiffy”version through the book and therefore could have done the Gastronomy of Marriage recipe , I decided to try my friend Dina’s first on a recent Tuesday evening. It was, shall I say, interesting. Actually it was pretty easy and a little more substantial than my original corn pudding. Was it better? Or better enough to throw my original recipe aside and switch loyalty? No. But it is basic and good. I imagine that if these versions were the first I had tried I might be more enthusiastic about them.
Aunt Bev's Corn Casserole from Dina
Preheat oven to 400
1 can whole kernel corn*
1 can cream style corn
1 box "Jiffy" corn muffin mix
1 cup sour cream
½ stick butter, melted
Mix the corn, sour cream, melted butter, and finally add the muffin mix until just combined
Bake at 400 degrees for about 30- 45 minutes.
A casserole dish turns out like a souffle; an 8 x 11 pan turns out somewhat firmer. (Annie, I use the casserole dish)
(* I used 16 oz pkg frozen whole kernel corn, thawed)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Corn pudding from the Gastronomy of Marriage
2 eggs
16 oz can whole kernel corn
1 16 oz. can cream style corn
1 box "Jiffy" corn muffin mix
1/2 stick butter, melted
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a medium size bowl beat the eggs and then add the corn, creamed corn, butter and muffin mix. Stir until just combined.
Bake in 8” X 8” dish for 20 to 25 minutes until the top is golden and an inserted toothpick comes out clean.
Either or all appropriate for Memorial Day/long weekend celebration.
Remember and enjoy
Friday, April 30, 2010
Food fights back
Or something like that. Perhaps it’s the body that fights back, or so it has seemed lately.
Food used to be one of my best friends, but not anymore. It’s not by chance that I have been writing this blog which is about food and family and friends. The premise of so much of food writing from Elizabeth David to MFK Fisher to Julia Child is that food is inextricably linked to us, to our families and relationships and lives. so it’s hard to remove myself. I like food as much as I ever did, but it seems to not like me so much. Various foods cause reactions that I don’t recall having had in the past. This could be a product of my brain aneurism, and resulting chemical changes, or as simple as a natural consequence of getting older. Whatever, something is different.
For most of my life, I could eat a really varied diet of stuff, sweets, fried stuff etc. I’ve not been a junk food addict since I passed puberty but I know that a lot of the stuff I could indulge in wasn't necessarily the healthiest.
Steve remembers one time when we were dating and I suggested going to a patio café I loved. At that point he did not know me well enough to see me as the healthy-eater I would later become, so had no preconceived ideas of what I might order. Still he admits to being taken aback when I ordered what we now refer to as "all that fried stuff". this spread was comprised of zucchini, mozzarella, chicken bits, and mushrooms all battered and deep-fried and served with complementary sauces/dips like ranch dressing for the zucchini, for example. So not exactly healthy eating. it was a one-time thing; not making a daily habit of it, is what made it so special and appealing. Anyway, I don’t recall that I had any reactions to all the fried stuff than.
Nowadays though,just to complicate things further, after leaving the hospital from my aneurism last year, I started having strange pains in my right side and back. Making a long story short, it turned out to be gallstones and gall bladder issues which resulted in a recent laparoscopic cholecystectomy which is a surgery to remove the gall bladder. The gallbladder is, as you might know, directly related to digestion. So messing with that is bound to directly influence food and food choices. That was a few weeks ago and I am now going through the adjustment period. Or maybe it’s just the way things are now. This could be my new reality.
So here is the question. What can I eat and what can’t I eat and still feel okay and not be offensive around others? The only real information I received about diet is to avoid or limit fats, oils and sweets. Recommended are whole grain bread, cereal, rice and whole grain pasta as well as dark green vegetables and lean meat, poultry and fish. In other words, what is generally considered a healthy diet. But, right now it is all a grand experiment. I have noted that ½ and ½ in my (decaf) coffee causes me some distress so it was one of the first things to go. I discovered my coffee shop has non-fat milk too! Who knows, I may try soy milk next. I guess no one changes unless they have to. What I kinda resent is that for the most part this is how I normally have eaten for the last few years. I figured that if I ate so healthy most of the time I was owed a few treats from time to time. These would consist of the occasional glass of wine (or two), one or two decadent desserts in a week. Tiramisu probably doesn’t qualify as healthy by the stretch of anyone’s imagination but once a month or so, how bad can it be? I guess that is what I will find out in this continuing adventure that is life. So, dear ones, no new recipes for delectable stuff this time. at least not yet. stay tuned.
Or something like that. Perhaps it’s the body that fights back, or so it has seemed lately.
Food used to be one of my best friends, but not anymore. It’s not by chance that I have been writing this blog which is about food and family and friends. The premise of so much of food writing from Elizabeth David to MFK Fisher to Julia Child is that food is inextricably linked to us, to our families and relationships and lives. so it’s hard to remove myself. I like food as much as I ever did, but it seems to not like me so much. Various foods cause reactions that I don’t recall having had in the past. This could be a product of my brain aneurism, and resulting chemical changes, or as simple as a natural consequence of getting older. Whatever, something is different.
For most of my life, I could eat a really varied diet of stuff, sweets, fried stuff etc. I’ve not been a junk food addict since I passed puberty but I know that a lot of the stuff I could indulge in wasn't necessarily the healthiest.
Steve remembers one time when we were dating and I suggested going to a patio café I loved. At that point he did not know me well enough to see me as the healthy-eater I would later become, so had no preconceived ideas of what I might order. Still he admits to being taken aback when I ordered what we now refer to as "all that fried stuff". this spread was comprised of zucchini, mozzarella, chicken bits, and mushrooms all battered and deep-fried and served with complementary sauces/dips like ranch dressing for the zucchini, for example. So not exactly healthy eating. it was a one-time thing; not making a daily habit of it, is what made it so special and appealing. Anyway, I don’t recall that I had any reactions to all the fried stuff than.
Nowadays though,just to complicate things further, after leaving the hospital from my aneurism last year, I started having strange pains in my right side and back. Making a long story short, it turned out to be gallstones and gall bladder issues which resulted in a recent laparoscopic cholecystectomy which is a surgery to remove the gall bladder. The gallbladder is, as you might know, directly related to digestion. So messing with that is bound to directly influence food and food choices. That was a few weeks ago and I am now going through the adjustment period. Or maybe it’s just the way things are now. This could be my new reality.
So here is the question. What can I eat and what can’t I eat and still feel okay and not be offensive around others? The only real information I received about diet is to avoid or limit fats, oils and sweets. Recommended are whole grain bread, cereal, rice and whole grain pasta as well as dark green vegetables and lean meat, poultry and fish. In other words, what is generally considered a healthy diet. But, right now it is all a grand experiment. I have noted that ½ and ½ in my (decaf) coffee causes me some distress so it was one of the first things to go. I discovered my coffee shop has non-fat milk too! Who knows, I may try soy milk next. I guess no one changes unless they have to. What I kinda resent is that for the most part this is how I normally have eaten for the last few years. I figured that if I ate so healthy most of the time I was owed a few treats from time to time. These would consist of the occasional glass of wine (or two), one or two decadent desserts in a week. Tiramisu probably doesn’t qualify as healthy by the stretch of anyone’s imagination but once a month or so, how bad can it be? I guess that is what I will find out in this continuing adventure that is life. So, dear ones, no new recipes for delectable stuff this time. at least not yet. stay tuned.
Friday, March 26, 2010
Easting Out
I love to eat “out”. Eating out in a restaurant makes life seem nicer somehow. Even a casual place, for pizza or Chinese somehow adds a glow to the process of eating to me. That’s the idea that they promote of course, selling us on the idea of having that certain feeling when we’re there. And each restaurant promotes their own particular brand of feeling or ambiance. The name sometimes gives it away. For example a “trattoria” is generally Italian and informal. It’s important to be aware that the American version of these sorts of names does not of necessity reflect the version encountered in another country. A bistro in America can appear as anything from a small intimate family owned place to a glossy chain owned by a conglomerate. Even though a similar restaurant in France by definition would be a small restaurant serving moderately priced simple meals in an unpretentious setting.
But never mind. I accept the manufactured tone; at least I do if it’s not too blatant. A place specializing in seafood should have a few fish and seabird type visuals scattered around, assuming they’re tasteful. And if said seafood restaurant is located by the water, so much the better. I can get into the mood they’ve set if the fish is good. Better yet, with a glass of wine in my hand and if bread is good, I am predisposed to like the fish. My favorite fish restaurant, Bluewater Grill, has seasonal menu changes which I like. In the fall it is spiney lobster season for example. Who doesn’t enjoy something that only has a season, that isn’t available at all times? That’s the basic concept behind vacation and holidays, isn’t it?
If not having to cook and having many choices isn’t reason enough to like going out to eat, eating out is fun. There are all kinds of people around that aren’t in your dining room, or if you’re the TV-tray type diner, in your living room. Not in mine, at least. So watching people, the family dynamics, couples conversations, the lively singles groups, is entertaining. How they dress, what they drink, how they focus on one another, or don’t. I’m more fun when I go out to eat. Or at least I think I am which could be the effect of the wine. I sparkle, I introduce conversational gambits, I amuse. I like myself when I’m eating out because I am so “on” which I think is the least a person can do for an occasion.
But mostly, I like eating out because the food is so good. In selecting the restaurant the food is pre-selected of course so I am predisposed to like it. In making a restaurant choice I mostly know what to expect. It’s about the food and/or the experience. Note I put the food first since why would anyone go somewhere for mediocre food? The pizza type meals are those that I count on to always be the same; dependable and good. The finer dining I count on to be good to excellent but not necessarily dependable in the same way. I want new experiences, new choices, but of course expect them to always be good and sometimes I am surprised with how exceptional the dishes turn out. So if I needed another reason, I would say that it’s not possible to be a good cook without eating out – it’s necessary to experience great food to have a knowledgeable viewpoint As if I needed another reason.
On weekends we invariably will cook in one night, usually but not always me, and go out one night, usually but not always on Sunday night. This weekend was no exception.
Sunday evening we went to one of my favorite places, Sage on the Coast, which is, appropriately, on the Coast at Crystal Cove. It is one of those places I have enough familiarity with that I have a sense of expectation when we go there. Perversely I want the things I have had in the past that I enjoyed so much, like the risotto cakes or fig and gorgonzola pizza appetizer. But the disappointing and great thing about Sage is they have a seasonal menu so there are always new things to try and experience; rendering the familiar as things of the past. Sad when I have my taster set for gorgonzola pizza but I know that whatever they do have will reflect the currently available stuff at the farmers market, done up in new and interesting ways. Their lovely patio and atmosphere makes extra worthwhile. Sadly, while there we spoke with chef Rich Mead who told us they will be going away and the location will be operated as a different restaurant. Bummer for us fans but fortunately Sage in Eastbluff will still be open. Not on the coast but still Rich mead’s lovely food and close by. And, there is a patio there too.
My Saturday night home cooking selection was a fennel and tomato gratin that I have had in my repertoire for a number of years. I originally tried it as a side dish for the big family thanksgiving feast, only to find that its lightness and originality, which was its charm for me, was not appreciated by most. Still, we like it. I think it would make a good chunky sauce mixed with a penne pasta or like I did this time, as a side for baked fish. However I did discover why I don’t make it that often – there’s a lot of cutting up of the fennel, which is required so as not to have big chunks. Other than that it’s an easy recipe and tastes really good too.
Gratin of Fennel and tomatoes
3/4 cup dried bread crumbs
5 Tbsp olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 large yellow onion (about 12 oz), halved, and cut into 1/4-inch slices
6 fennel bulbs, trimmed of stalks, halved, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch slices
1 can (28 oz) diced tomatoes, drained
1 tsp kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano
Minced zest of 1 lemon
In an 8-inch skillet over medium-high heat, toast the bread crumbs, stirring constantly, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Set aside to cool.
In a 12-inch sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat, and swirl to coat the pan. Sauté the garlic and onion until soft, but not brown, about 3 minutes. Add the fennel and continue sautéing, stirring frequently, until the fennel has softened and is beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt, and pepper to taste. Lower the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes longer. Transfer to a shallow oven-to-table casserole or gratin dish.
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. In a medium bowl, combine the bread crumbs, Parmesan, and lemon zest. Sprinkle evenly over the fennel mixture. (The gratin can be made up to this point 6 to 8 hours ahead. Cover, and set aside at room temperature.)
Bake the gratin until heated through and the topping is crisp, about 30 minutes. Serve hot.
Serves 10
I love to eat “out”. Eating out in a restaurant makes life seem nicer somehow. Even a casual place, for pizza or Chinese somehow adds a glow to the process of eating to me. That’s the idea that they promote of course, selling us on the idea of having that certain feeling when we’re there. And each restaurant promotes their own particular brand of feeling or ambiance. The name sometimes gives it away. For example a “trattoria” is generally Italian and informal. It’s important to be aware that the American version of these sorts of names does not of necessity reflect the version encountered in another country. A bistro in America can appear as anything from a small intimate family owned place to a glossy chain owned by a conglomerate. Even though a similar restaurant in France by definition would be a small restaurant serving moderately priced simple meals in an unpretentious setting.
But never mind. I accept the manufactured tone; at least I do if it’s not too blatant. A place specializing in seafood should have a few fish and seabird type visuals scattered around, assuming they’re tasteful. And if said seafood restaurant is located by the water, so much the better. I can get into the mood they’ve set if the fish is good. Better yet, with a glass of wine in my hand and if bread is good, I am predisposed to like the fish. My favorite fish restaurant, Bluewater Grill, has seasonal menu changes which I like. In the fall it is spiney lobster season for example. Who doesn’t enjoy something that only has a season, that isn’t available at all times? That’s the basic concept behind vacation and holidays, isn’t it?
If not having to cook and having many choices isn’t reason enough to like going out to eat, eating out is fun. There are all kinds of people around that aren’t in your dining room, or if you’re the TV-tray type diner, in your living room. Not in mine, at least. So watching people, the family dynamics, couples conversations, the lively singles groups, is entertaining. How they dress, what they drink, how they focus on one another, or don’t. I’m more fun when I go out to eat. Or at least I think I am which could be the effect of the wine. I sparkle, I introduce conversational gambits, I amuse. I like myself when I’m eating out because I am so “on” which I think is the least a person can do for an occasion.
But mostly, I like eating out because the food is so good. In selecting the restaurant the food is pre-selected of course so I am predisposed to like it. In making a restaurant choice I mostly know what to expect. It’s about the food and/or the experience. Note I put the food first since why would anyone go somewhere for mediocre food? The pizza type meals are those that I count on to always be the same; dependable and good. The finer dining I count on to be good to excellent but not necessarily dependable in the same way. I want new experiences, new choices, but of course expect them to always be good and sometimes I am surprised with how exceptional the dishes turn out. So if I needed another reason, I would say that it’s not possible to be a good cook without eating out – it’s necessary to experience great food to have a knowledgeable viewpoint As if I needed another reason.
On weekends we invariably will cook in one night, usually but not always me, and go out one night, usually but not always on Sunday night. This weekend was no exception.
Sunday evening we went to one of my favorite places, Sage on the Coast, which is, appropriately, on the Coast at Crystal Cove. It is one of those places I have enough familiarity with that I have a sense of expectation when we go there. Perversely I want the things I have had in the past that I enjoyed so much, like the risotto cakes or fig and gorgonzola pizza appetizer. But the disappointing and great thing about Sage is they have a seasonal menu so there are always new things to try and experience; rendering the familiar as things of the past. Sad when I have my taster set for gorgonzola pizza but I know that whatever they do have will reflect the currently available stuff at the farmers market, done up in new and interesting ways. Their lovely patio and atmosphere makes extra worthwhile. Sadly, while there we spoke with chef Rich Mead who told us they will be going away and the location will be operated as a different restaurant. Bummer for us fans but fortunately Sage in Eastbluff will still be open. Not on the coast but still Rich mead’s lovely food and close by. And, there is a patio there too.
My Saturday night home cooking selection was a fennel and tomato gratin that I have had in my repertoire for a number of years. I originally tried it as a side dish for the big family thanksgiving feast, only to find that its lightness and originality, which was its charm for me, was not appreciated by most. Still, we like it. I think it would make a good chunky sauce mixed with a penne pasta or like I did this time, as a side for baked fish. However I did discover why I don’t make it that often – there’s a lot of cutting up of the fennel, which is required so as not to have big chunks. Other than that it’s an easy recipe and tastes really good too.
Gratin of Fennel and tomatoes
3/4 cup dried bread crumbs
5 Tbsp olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 large yellow onion (about 12 oz), halved, and cut into 1/4-inch slices
6 fennel bulbs, trimmed of stalks, halved, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch slices
1 can (28 oz) diced tomatoes, drained
1 tsp kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano
Minced zest of 1 lemon
In an 8-inch skillet over medium-high heat, toast the bread crumbs, stirring constantly, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Set aside to cool.
In a 12-inch sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat, and swirl to coat the pan. Sauté the garlic and onion until soft, but not brown, about 3 minutes. Add the fennel and continue sautéing, stirring frequently, until the fennel has softened and is beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt, and pepper to taste. Lower the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes longer. Transfer to a shallow oven-to-table casserole or gratin dish.
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. In a medium bowl, combine the bread crumbs, Parmesan, and lemon zest. Sprinkle evenly over the fennel mixture. (The gratin can be made up to this point 6 to 8 hours ahead. Cover, and set aside at room temperature.)
Bake the gratin until heated through and the topping is crisp, about 30 minutes. Serve hot.
Serves 10
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Soup!
As the saying goes, everyone talks (or complains) about the weather but no one does anything about it. Weather talk does make a handy conversation starter. Where I live it’s somewhat less of an issue than some places – but even in the absence of extreme snowstorms, tornadoes and earthquakes, we can find something to complain about. The last few weeks have had more than our share of rain, which in Southern California is an anomaly and welcomed only by some.
However the last few days in Orange County have been bright and sunny. We’ve had a spell of very warm weather considering its February, much to the gratitude of those whose homes lie in the path of mudslifes and flooding. And to the rest of us who much prefer sun to rain and dark days, even if we don’t have those particular concerns.
No doubt the cool weather will return and prevail for a while longer. I keep reminding myself that when it is winter it has to act that way. Summer will come again. During the coolness I understand how the coffee culture came to be invented in cold places like Seattle. Being indoors with a hot drink is a perfect antidote for damp surroundings. Other perfect things are comfort foods like risotto and spicy foods like Mexican dishes. But for something lighter and just as satisfying there’s soup, which typically will have less carbohydrates and fat or other things that might not agree with your digestive system.
Over the years I have accumulated a fair number of soup and stew recipes. However, as with most recipes, or most things maybe, it’s always easy to fall back on the known and familiar,like Au Pistou which is very forgiving since it has a variety of ingredients, and always tastes wonderful. So I keep making a few of them over and over, then in some cases I don’t even make the attempt. For example since I have an excellent clam chowder source I don’t even have to try making that.
Under all circumstances the type of recipe that appeals to me to take on is usually something that is not commonly available. With soup this has become more and more of a challenge since now there are so many places to obtain fresh good soup to take away. Most grocery stores have a nice selection and we’re not just talking about places like Whole Foods Market or small places like my neighborhood Zinc Market and Café. Even Trader Joes has some pretty good soups like the butternut squash and the roasted tomato, though they are packaged and not fresh. During our recent rainy spell, I made a soup of the type I love if I am even going to bother with it; one that is less common and that I have not seen around. I prefer a dish that has a lot of chunkiness to it with fresh vegetables. All kinds of vegetables but I particularly love root vegetables probably because you don’t see them used in recipes as much although I will say that they appear to have gained favor in the last few years. It must be the influence of celebrity chefs who focus on seasonal and local foods.
Surprisingly, I have had this recipe for years, but not made it. For some reason (cold rainy weather?) as I was leafing through my binder of possibilities it just jumped out at me that day. so I prepared it for us and our friend Larry, who came to share our meal. He brought a nice bottle of Pinot Noir which complemented the dish perfectly. I baked cornbread to go with the soup which did taste good, but in retrospect I think that a crusty artisanal bread might have been a better choice. To dip in the broth, you know.
Root Vegetable Soup with Lentils & Gruyere
Ingredients
1. 1 cup green lentils
2. Salt
3. 1/4 lb pancetta, sliced 1/4 inch thick and finely diced
4. 6 garlic cloves, finely minced
5. 3 carrots, finely diced
6. 2 celery ribs,diced
7. 1 onion, diced
8. 2 medium red potatoes
9. 11/2 cup diced peeled butternut squash
10. ½ cup fdiced peeled rutabaga (1 lg)
11. ½ cup diced peeled parsnip (2)
12. ½ cup diced peeled turnip (1)
13. Freshly ground pepper
14. 3 quarts chicken stock or canned low-sodium broth
15. 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
16. 2 tablespoons chopped thyme
17. 1/4 pound Gruyère, thinly shaved
18. 1 tablespoon olive oil
Directions
1. In a small saucepan, cover the lentils with 1-2 inches of water and add a large pinch of salt. Cover and bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain.
2. In a large saucepan, cook the pancetta over moderately low heat, stirring, until most of the fat has been rendered, about 8 minutes. Add olive oil to the pan and then then garlic and, onion, and cook over moderately high heat for 2 minutes, then add carrots, celery and root vegetables stirring to coat with fat. Season with salt and pepper and cook until the vegetables soften, about 10 minutes longer. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes
3. Stir in the lentils, parsley and thyme and season with salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls, top with Gruyère shavings and serve piping hot.
The soup can be made ahead and refrigerated for 3 days. Make ahead is another one of the big advantages to soup. In most cases it is improved by the sitting.
As the saying goes, everyone talks (or complains) about the weather but no one does anything about it. Weather talk does make a handy conversation starter. Where I live it’s somewhat less of an issue than some places – but even in the absence of extreme snowstorms, tornadoes and earthquakes, we can find something to complain about. The last few weeks have had more than our share of rain, which in Southern California is an anomaly and welcomed only by some.
However the last few days in Orange County have been bright and sunny. We’ve had a spell of very warm weather considering its February, much to the gratitude of those whose homes lie in the path of mudslifes and flooding. And to the rest of us who much prefer sun to rain and dark days, even if we don’t have those particular concerns.
No doubt the cool weather will return and prevail for a while longer. I keep reminding myself that when it is winter it has to act that way. Summer will come again. During the coolness I understand how the coffee culture came to be invented in cold places like Seattle. Being indoors with a hot drink is a perfect antidote for damp surroundings. Other perfect things are comfort foods like risotto and spicy foods like Mexican dishes. But for something lighter and just as satisfying there’s soup, which typically will have less carbohydrates and fat or other things that might not agree with your digestive system.
Over the years I have accumulated a fair number of soup and stew recipes. However, as with most recipes, or most things maybe, it’s always easy to fall back on the known and familiar,like Au Pistou which is very forgiving since it has a variety of ingredients, and always tastes wonderful. So I keep making a few of them over and over, then in some cases I don’t even make the attempt. For example since I have an excellent clam chowder source I don’t even have to try making that.
Under all circumstances the type of recipe that appeals to me to take on is usually something that is not commonly available. With soup this has become more and more of a challenge since now there are so many places to obtain fresh good soup to take away. Most grocery stores have a nice selection and we’re not just talking about places like Whole Foods Market or small places like my neighborhood Zinc Market and Café. Even Trader Joes has some pretty good soups like the butternut squash and the roasted tomato, though they are packaged and not fresh. During our recent rainy spell, I made a soup of the type I love if I am even going to bother with it; one that is less common and that I have not seen around. I prefer a dish that has a lot of chunkiness to it with fresh vegetables. All kinds of vegetables but I particularly love root vegetables probably because you don’t see them used in recipes as much although I will say that they appear to have gained favor in the last few years. It must be the influence of celebrity chefs who focus on seasonal and local foods.
Surprisingly, I have had this recipe for years, but not made it. For some reason (cold rainy weather?) as I was leafing through my binder of possibilities it just jumped out at me that day. so I prepared it for us and our friend Larry, who came to share our meal. He brought a nice bottle of Pinot Noir which complemented the dish perfectly. I baked cornbread to go with the soup which did taste good, but in retrospect I think that a crusty artisanal bread might have been a better choice. To dip in the broth, you know.
Root Vegetable Soup with Lentils & Gruyere
Ingredients
1. 1 cup green lentils
2. Salt
3. 1/4 lb pancetta, sliced 1/4 inch thick and finely diced
4. 6 garlic cloves, finely minced
5. 3 carrots, finely diced
6. 2 celery ribs,diced
7. 1 onion, diced
8. 2 medium red potatoes
9. 11/2 cup diced peeled butternut squash
10. ½ cup fdiced peeled rutabaga (1 lg)
11. ½ cup diced peeled parsnip (2)
12. ½ cup diced peeled turnip (1)
13. Freshly ground pepper
14. 3 quarts chicken stock or canned low-sodium broth
15. 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
16. 2 tablespoons chopped thyme
17. 1/4 pound Gruyère, thinly shaved
18. 1 tablespoon olive oil
Directions
1. In a small saucepan, cover the lentils with 1-2 inches of water and add a large pinch of salt. Cover and bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain.
2. In a large saucepan, cook the pancetta over moderately low heat, stirring, until most of the fat has been rendered, about 8 minutes. Add olive oil to the pan and then then garlic and, onion, and cook over moderately high heat for 2 minutes, then add carrots, celery and root vegetables stirring to coat with fat. Season with salt and pepper and cook until the vegetables soften, about 10 minutes longer. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes
3. Stir in the lentils, parsley and thyme and season with salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls, top with Gruyère shavings and serve piping hot.
The soup can be made ahead and refrigerated for 3 days. Make ahead is another one of the big advantages to soup. In most cases it is improved by the sitting.
Sunday, February 7, 2010
Fish Tacos
I will admit to being, shall I say, a trifle obsessive. That is, when I get interested or focused on a particular item, I will pursue it completely. This can occur with clothing, home decor, or more to the point here, with food.
Right now and for the last few months it’s been fish tacos. Fish tacos are just another type of taco, but as their own category really were virtually unheard of up until just a few years ago. The type of fish tacos I am talking about and captivated by are a new and improved type. They are commonly found in places like Baja (California) and sometimes considered “street food”, discovered by surfers and voyagers of that type.
Briefly, they consist of a warmed soft tortilla laden with thinly sliced cabbage and/or lettuce, a type of salsa known as “pico de gallo” which is usually fresh chopped tomato, onion and jalapeno peppers, served with a nice piece of grilled fish. Frequently served open-faced rather than rolled up, It’s light and healthy food! And when done right, delicious! New to Americans, no doubt Mexicans have been eating these for years. As the story goes about the discovery of this type of taco, my understanding is that on their trips south of the border, the surfer types so enjoyed the casual, delicious tacos they had that they created the market for them here, saying “why don’t we have something like this at home?” All of the rest of us benefit from their productive musing.
In my area the originators (or so we believe) are the Wahoos people. The owners of Wahoos fit the surfer mode and were also fortunate enough to be a part of a restaurant family when growing up so they had the background and business acumen to make it happen. The Wahoos tacos are some of the simplest of this category of taco. They have stayed true to the Baja/surfer roots. The Wahoos chain also offers other types of Mexican dishes but doesn’t pretend to be anything other than what they are; fast food with healthy and light touch.
Of course once something is successful, others will imitate; unfortunately it’s not just as easy as putting fish on a tortilla. The essence of this type of taco is for it to be light and healthy along with flavorful. There are many imitators who have added breading to the fish, and cheese to the finished product. But really, the trick is to keep it flavorful while simple. Not an easy task.
We have eaten fish tacos at different “healthy Mex” type of places. They’re usually not bad, but not necessarily great. Originally I took Wahoos as my template as to what a good “Baja” fish taco should be.
With that in mind, Steve and I have indulged in fish tacos in a number of places. We have a local place, La Fogata, within walking distance that is not part of a chain and considers itself healthy Mex. theirs has breading and some sort of spice that I don’t like though Steve likes them well enough so we go back. As a substitute I usually have their shrimp tacos which taste good even though they’re strictly not fish tacos. They also have a grilled veggie taco which is pretty good. Oh and the other thing Steve seems to like so well there is the condiment bar. Most Mexican places have them. Usually included are two or more types of salsas (hot sauce) sometimes cilantro (coriander) sometimes chopped onions. This one has all of that and also a pico de gallo salsa and a fresh corn salsa which consists of tomatos, onions, peppers and corn – sort of like a corn salad. This is s like a lagniappe for Steve. The tacos come on two colored tortillas, one of which I believe to be spinach so that gives it an additional healthy feeling.
That said, we recently discovered a new place in our area which now has most of our fish taco business. Unfortunately, not as close as La Fogata, and not as well known as Wahoos, but no matter. I am convinced theirs are the most delicious tacos I have ever had. The place is named Bear Flag Fish Company http://bearflagfishco.com and as the story goes started out as a fish market and expanded to include a few cooked items such as fish tacos, and other things that sound good like rice bowls with fish, fish sandwiches on C’est si Bon baguettes and other things, I guess. But I can’t get past the tacos, they’re so good! Theirs are made with a fish named Basa which I have never before seen or had. They grill the Basa so it tastes and looks like grilled fish with little charred edges and place it on a soft corn tortilla along withsome shredded cabbage and pico de gallo salsa, and avocado by request. It’s a testament to the place that I am willing to sit in a crowded noisy place with only communal tables to sit at and still enjoy the meal and keep going back. Although I admit that I will try to avoid Taco Tuesday from now on.
It’s now become sort of a challenge to see who has a really good version of fish tacos. The other helpful feature is that they are usually pretty low-priced so a good weekday meal. In the continuing experiment we have tried the fish tacos at our regular Friday night restaurant, Quiet Woman. The quality of theirs is consistent with everything else there, that is to say, quite good. But they’re not the casual “Baja” style that I’m expecting. We recently had fish tacos at another place that bills itself as “healthy Mex”, La Salsa . The tacos were good, theirs had cheese as well as the other stuff but not great. Another regular restaurant we go to is California Pizza kitchen. And would you believe that they too recently added fish tacos to their menu? Perhaps we are on the cutting edge here. Realistically I don’t imagine that CPK’s version will be terribly authentic, but I would expect it to be good and might be worth trying once, anyway.
In the meantime, I will continue to make my pilgrimage every two weeks or so to Bear Flag for the best fish tacos around. Could I make these tacos? Probably - but then I would have to shop for tortillas, salsa, fresh fish and then grill the fish and assemble it all. But why when I know where to go for the perfect one? I just think that there are certain things better eaten out or cooked by someone else. For me, pizza would fall into this category as would most Asian food. Arbitrary, I know but it works for me.
I will admit to being, shall I say, a trifle obsessive. That is, when I get interested or focused on a particular item, I will pursue it completely. This can occur with clothing, home decor, or more to the point here, with food.
Right now and for the last few months it’s been fish tacos. Fish tacos are just another type of taco, but as their own category really were virtually unheard of up until just a few years ago. The type of fish tacos I am talking about and captivated by are a new and improved type. They are commonly found in places like Baja (California) and sometimes considered “street food”, discovered by surfers and voyagers of that type.
Briefly, they consist of a warmed soft tortilla laden with thinly sliced cabbage and/or lettuce, a type of salsa known as “pico de gallo” which is usually fresh chopped tomato, onion and jalapeno peppers, served with a nice piece of grilled fish. Frequently served open-faced rather than rolled up, It’s light and healthy food! And when done right, delicious! New to Americans, no doubt Mexicans have been eating these for years. As the story goes about the discovery of this type of taco, my understanding is that on their trips south of the border, the surfer types so enjoyed the casual, delicious tacos they had that they created the market for them here, saying “why don’t we have something like this at home?” All of the rest of us benefit from their productive musing.
In my area the originators (or so we believe) are the Wahoos people. The owners of Wahoos fit the surfer mode and were also fortunate enough to be a part of a restaurant family when growing up so they had the background and business acumen to make it happen. The Wahoos tacos are some of the simplest of this category of taco. They have stayed true to the Baja/surfer roots. The Wahoos chain also offers other types of Mexican dishes but doesn’t pretend to be anything other than what they are; fast food with healthy and light touch.
Of course once something is successful, others will imitate; unfortunately it’s not just as easy as putting fish on a tortilla. The essence of this type of taco is for it to be light and healthy along with flavorful. There are many imitators who have added breading to the fish, and cheese to the finished product. But really, the trick is to keep it flavorful while simple. Not an easy task.
We have eaten fish tacos at different “healthy Mex” type of places. They’re usually not bad, but not necessarily great. Originally I took Wahoos as my template as to what a good “Baja” fish taco should be.
With that in mind, Steve and I have indulged in fish tacos in a number of places. We have a local place, La Fogata, within walking distance that is not part of a chain and considers itself healthy Mex. theirs has breading and some sort of spice that I don’t like though Steve likes them well enough so we go back. As a substitute I usually have their shrimp tacos which taste good even though they’re strictly not fish tacos. They also have a grilled veggie taco which is pretty good. Oh and the other thing Steve seems to like so well there is the condiment bar. Most Mexican places have them. Usually included are two or more types of salsas (hot sauce) sometimes cilantro (coriander) sometimes chopped onions. This one has all of that and also a pico de gallo salsa and a fresh corn salsa which consists of tomatos, onions, peppers and corn – sort of like a corn salad. This is s like a lagniappe for Steve. The tacos come on two colored tortillas, one of which I believe to be spinach so that gives it an additional healthy feeling.
That said, we recently discovered a new place in our area which now has most of our fish taco business. Unfortunately, not as close as La Fogata, and not as well known as Wahoos, but no matter. I am convinced theirs are the most delicious tacos I have ever had. The place is named Bear Flag Fish Company http://bearflagfishco.com and as the story goes started out as a fish market and expanded to include a few cooked items such as fish tacos, and other things that sound good like rice bowls with fish, fish sandwiches on C’est si Bon baguettes and other things, I guess. But I can’t get past the tacos, they’re so good! Theirs are made with a fish named Basa which I have never before seen or had. They grill the Basa so it tastes and looks like grilled fish with little charred edges and place it on a soft corn tortilla along withsome shredded cabbage and pico de gallo salsa, and avocado by request. It’s a testament to the place that I am willing to sit in a crowded noisy place with only communal tables to sit at and still enjoy the meal and keep going back. Although I admit that I will try to avoid Taco Tuesday from now on.
It’s now become sort of a challenge to see who has a really good version of fish tacos. The other helpful feature is that they are usually pretty low-priced so a good weekday meal. In the continuing experiment we have tried the fish tacos at our regular Friday night restaurant, Quiet Woman. The quality of theirs is consistent with everything else there, that is to say, quite good. But they’re not the casual “Baja” style that I’m expecting. We recently had fish tacos at another place that bills itself as “healthy Mex”, La Salsa . The tacos were good, theirs had cheese as well as the other stuff but not great. Another regular restaurant we go to is California Pizza kitchen. And would you believe that they too recently added fish tacos to their menu? Perhaps we are on the cutting edge here. Realistically I don’t imagine that CPK’s version will be terribly authentic, but I would expect it to be good and might be worth trying once, anyway.
In the meantime, I will continue to make my pilgrimage every two weeks or so to Bear Flag for the best fish tacos around. Could I make these tacos? Probably - but then I would have to shop for tortillas, salsa, fresh fish and then grill the fish and assemble it all. But why when I know where to go for the perfect one? I just think that there are certain things better eaten out or cooked by someone else. For me, pizza would fall into this category as would most Asian food. Arbitrary, I know but it works for me.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)