Friday, March 26, 2010

Easting Out

I love to eat “out”. Eating out in a restaurant makes life seem nicer somehow. Even a casual place, for pizza or Chinese somehow adds a glow to the process of eating to me. That’s the idea that they promote of course, selling us on the idea of having that certain feeling when we’re there. And each restaurant promotes their own particular brand of feeling or ambiance. The name sometimes gives it away. For example a “trattoria” is generally Italian and informal. It’s important to be aware that the American version of these sorts of names does not of necessity reflect the version encountered in another country. A bistro in America can appear as anything from a small intimate family owned place to a glossy chain owned by a conglomerate. Even though a similar restaurant in France by definition would be a small restaurant serving moderately priced simple meals in an unpretentious setting.

But never mind. I accept the manufactured tone; at least I do if it’s not too blatant. A place specializing in seafood should have a few fish and seabird type visuals scattered around, assuming they’re tasteful. And if said seafood restaurant is located by the water, so much the better. I can get into the mood they’ve set if the fish is good. Better yet, with a glass of wine in my hand and if bread is good, I am predisposed to like the fish. My favorite fish restaurant, Bluewater Grill, has seasonal menu changes which I like. In the fall it is spiney lobster season for example. Who doesn’t enjoy something that only has a season, that isn’t available at all times? That’s the basic concept behind vacation and holidays, isn’t it?

If not having to cook and having many choices isn’t reason enough to like going out to eat, eating out is fun. There are all kinds of people around that aren’t in your dining room, or if you’re the TV-tray type diner, in your living room. Not in mine, at least. So watching people, the family dynamics, couples conversations, the lively singles groups, is entertaining. How they dress, what they drink, how they focus on one another, or don’t. I’m more fun when I go out to eat. Or at least I think I am which could be the effect of the wine. I sparkle, I introduce conversational gambits, I amuse. I like myself when I’m eating out because I am so “on” which I think is the least a person can do for an occasion.

But mostly, I like eating out because the food is so good. In selecting the restaurant the food is pre-selected of course so I am predisposed to like it. In making a restaurant choice I mostly know what to expect. It’s about the food and/or the experience. Note I put the food first since why would anyone go somewhere for mediocre food? The pizza type meals are those that I count on to always be the same; dependable and good. The finer dining I count on to be good to excellent but not necessarily dependable in the same way. I want new experiences, new choices, but of course expect them to always be good and sometimes I am surprised with how exceptional the dishes turn out. So if I needed another reason, I would say that it’s not possible to be a good cook without eating out – it’s necessary to experience great food to have a knowledgeable viewpoint As if I needed another reason.

On weekends we invariably will cook in one night, usually but not always me, and go out one night, usually but not always on Sunday night. This weekend was no exception.
Sunday evening we went to one of my favorite places, Sage on the Coast, which is, appropriately, on the Coast at Crystal Cove. It is one of those places I have enough familiarity with that I have a sense of expectation when we go there. Perversely I want the things I have had in the past that I enjoyed so much, like the risotto cakes or fig and gorgonzola pizza appetizer. But the disappointing and great thing about Sage is they have a seasonal menu so there are always new things to try and experience; rendering the familiar as things of the past. Sad when I have my taster set for gorgonzola pizza but I know that whatever they do have will reflect the currently available stuff at the farmers market, done up in new and interesting ways. Their lovely patio and atmosphere makes extra worthwhile. Sadly, while there we spoke with chef Rich Mead who told us they will be going away and the location will be operated as a different restaurant. Bummer for us fans but fortunately Sage in Eastbluff will still be open. Not on the coast but still Rich mead’s lovely food and close by. And, there is a patio there too.

My Saturday night home cooking selection was a fennel and tomato gratin that I have had in my repertoire for a number of years. I originally tried it as a side dish for the big family thanksgiving feast, only to find that its lightness and originality, which was its charm for me, was not appreciated by most. Still, we like it. I think it would make a good chunky sauce mixed with a penne pasta or like I did this time, as a side for baked fish. However I did discover why I don’t make it that often – there’s a lot of cutting up of the fennel, which is required so as not to have big chunks. Other than that it’s an easy recipe and tastes really good too.

Gratin of Fennel and tomatoes

3/4 cup dried bread crumbs
5 Tbsp olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 large yellow onion (about 12 oz), halved, and cut into 1/4-inch slices
6 fennel bulbs, trimmed of stalks, halved, cored, and cut into 1/4-inch slices
1 can (28 oz) diced tomatoes, drained
1 tsp kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano
Minced zest of 1 lemon

In an 8-inch skillet over medium-high heat, toast the bread crumbs, stirring constantly, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Set aside to cool.
In a 12-inch sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat, and swirl to coat the pan. Sauté the garlic and onion until soft, but not brown, about 3 minutes. Add the fennel and continue sautéing, stirring frequently, until the fennel has softened and is beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt, and pepper to taste. Lower the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes longer. Transfer to a shallow oven-to-table casserole or gratin dish.
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. In a medium bowl, combine the bread crumbs, Parmesan, and lemon zest. Sprinkle evenly over the fennel mixture. (The gratin can be made up to this point 6 to 8 hours ahead. Cover, and set aside at room temperature.)
Bake the gratin until heated through and the topping is crisp, about 30 minutes. Serve hot.
Serves 10

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Soup!

As the saying goes, everyone talks (or complains) about the weather but no one does anything about it. Weather talk does make a handy conversation starter. Where I live it’s somewhat less of an issue than some places – but even in the absence of extreme snowstorms, tornadoes and earthquakes, we can find something to complain about. The last few weeks have had more than our share of rain, which in Southern California is an anomaly and welcomed only by some.
However the last few days in Orange County have been bright and sunny. We’ve had a spell of very warm weather considering its February, much to the gratitude of those whose homes lie in the path of mudslifes and flooding. And to the rest of us who much prefer sun to rain and dark days, even if we don’t have those particular concerns.
No doubt the cool weather will return and prevail for a while longer. I keep reminding myself that when it is winter it has to act that way. Summer will come again. During the coolness I understand how the coffee culture came to be invented in cold places like Seattle. Being indoors with a hot drink is a perfect antidote for damp surroundings. Other perfect things are comfort foods like risotto and spicy foods like Mexican dishes. But for something lighter and just as satisfying there’s soup, which typically will have less carbohydrates and fat or other things that might not agree with your digestive system.
Over the years I have accumulated a fair number of soup and stew recipes. However, as with most recipes, or most things maybe, it’s always easy to fall back on the known and familiar,like Au Pistou which is very forgiving since it has a variety of ingredients, and always tastes wonderful. So I keep making a few of them over and over, then in some cases I don’t even make the attempt. For example since I have an excellent clam chowder source I don’t even have to try making that.
Under all circumstances the type of recipe that appeals to me to take on is usually something that is not commonly available. With soup this has become more and more of a challenge since now there are so many places to obtain fresh good soup to take away. Most grocery stores have a nice selection and we’re not just talking about places like Whole Foods Market or small places like my neighborhood Zinc Market and Café. Even Trader Joes has some pretty good soups like the butternut squash and the roasted tomato, though they are packaged and not fresh. During our recent rainy spell, I made a soup of the type I love if I am even going to bother with it; one that is less common and that I have not seen around. I prefer a dish that has a lot of chunkiness to it with fresh vegetables. All kinds of vegetables but I particularly love root vegetables probably because you don’t see them used in recipes as much although I will say that they appear to have gained favor in the last few years. It must be the influence of celebrity chefs who focus on seasonal and local foods.
Surprisingly, I have had this recipe for years, but not made it. For some reason (cold rainy weather?) as I was leafing through my binder of possibilities it just jumped out at me that day. so I prepared it for us and our friend Larry, who came to share our meal. He brought a nice bottle of Pinot Noir which complemented the dish perfectly. I baked cornbread to go with the soup which did taste good, but in retrospect I think that a crusty artisanal bread might have been a better choice. To dip in the broth, you know.




Root Vegetable Soup with Lentils & Gruyere
Ingredients
1. 1 cup green lentils
2. Salt
3. 1/4 lb pancetta, sliced 1/4 inch thick and finely diced
4. 6 garlic cloves, finely minced
5. 3 carrots, finely diced
6. 2 celery ribs,diced
7. 1 onion, diced
8. 2 medium red potatoes
9. 11/2 cup diced peeled butternut squash
10. ½ cup fdiced peeled rutabaga (1 lg)
11. ½ cup diced peeled parsnip (2)
12. ½ cup diced peeled turnip (1)
13. Freshly ground pepper
14. 3 quarts chicken stock or canned low-sodium broth
15. 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
16. 2 tablespoons chopped thyme
17. 1/4 pound Gruyère, thinly shaved
18. 1 tablespoon olive oil

Directions
1. In a small saucepan, cover the lentils with 1-2 inches of water and add a large pinch of salt. Cover and bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain.
2. In a large saucepan, cook the pancetta over moderately low heat, stirring, until most of the fat has been rendered, about 8 minutes. Add olive oil to the pan and then then garlic and, onion, and cook over moderately high heat for 2 minutes, then add carrots, celery and root vegetables stirring to coat with fat. Season with salt and pepper and cook until the vegetables soften, about 10 minutes longer. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes
3. Stir in the lentils, parsley and thyme and season with salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls, top with Gruyère shavings and serve piping hot.

The soup can be made ahead and refrigerated for 3 days. Make ahead is another one of the big advantages to soup. In most cases it is improved by the sitting.

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Fish Tacos

I will admit to being, shall I say, a trifle obsessive. That is, when I get interested or focused on a particular item, I will pursue it completely. This can occur with clothing, home decor, or more to the point here, with food.
Right now and for the last few months it’s been fish tacos. Fish tacos are just another type of taco, but as their own category really were virtually unheard of up until just a few years ago. The type of fish tacos I am talking about and captivated by are a new and improved type. They are commonly found in places like Baja (California) and sometimes considered “street food”, discovered by surfers and voyagers of that type.
Briefly, they consist of a warmed soft tortilla laden with thinly sliced cabbage and/or lettuce, a type of salsa known as “pico de gallo” which is usually fresh chopped tomato, onion and jalapeno peppers, served with a nice piece of grilled fish. Frequently served open-faced rather than rolled up, It’s light and healthy food! And when done right, delicious! New to Americans, no doubt Mexicans have been eating these for years. As the story goes about the discovery of this type of taco, my understanding is that on their trips south of the border, the surfer types so enjoyed the casual, delicious tacos they had that they created the market for them here, saying “why don’t we have something like this at home?” All of the rest of us benefit from their productive musing.
In my area the originators (or so we believe) are the Wahoos people. The owners of Wahoos fit the surfer mode and were also fortunate enough to be a part of a restaurant family when growing up so they had the background and business acumen to make it happen. The Wahoos tacos are some of the simplest of this category of taco. They have stayed true to the Baja/surfer roots. The Wahoos chain also offers other types of Mexican dishes but doesn’t pretend to be anything other than what they are; fast food with healthy and light touch.
Of course once something is successful, others will imitate; unfortunately it’s not just as easy as putting fish on a tortilla. The essence of this type of taco is for it to be light and healthy along with flavorful. There are many imitators who have added breading to the fish, and cheese to the finished product. But really, the trick is to keep it flavorful while simple. Not an easy task.
We have eaten fish tacos at different “healthy Mex” type of places. They’re usually not bad, but not necessarily great. Originally I took Wahoos as my template as to what a good “Baja” fish taco should be.
With that in mind, Steve and I have indulged in fish tacos in a number of places. We have a local place, La Fogata, within walking distance that is not part of a chain and considers itself healthy Mex. theirs has breading and some sort of spice that I don’t like though Steve likes them well enough so we go back. As a substitute I usually have their shrimp tacos which taste good even though they’re strictly not fish tacos. They also have a grilled veggie taco which is pretty good. Oh and the other thing Steve seems to like so well there is the condiment bar. Most Mexican places have them. Usually included are two or more types of salsas (hot sauce) sometimes cilantro (coriander) sometimes chopped onions. This one has all of that and also a pico de gallo salsa and a fresh corn salsa which consists of tomatos, onions, peppers and corn – sort of like a corn salad. This is s like a lagniappe for Steve. The tacos come on two colored tortillas, one of which I believe to be spinach so that gives it an additional healthy feeling.

That said, we recently discovered a new place in our area which now has most of our fish taco business. Unfortunately, not as close as La Fogata, and not as well known as Wahoos, but no matter. I am convinced theirs are the most delicious tacos I have ever had. The place is named Bear Flag Fish Company http://bearflagfishco.com and as the story goes started out as a fish market and expanded to include a few cooked items such as fish tacos, and other things that sound good like rice bowls with fish, fish sandwiches on C’est si Bon baguettes and other things, I guess. But I can’t get past the tacos, they’re so good! Theirs are made with a fish named Basa which I have never before seen or had. They grill the Basa so it tastes and looks like grilled fish with little charred edges and place it on a soft corn tortilla along withsome shredded cabbage and pico de gallo salsa, and avocado by request. It’s a testament to the place that I am willing to sit in a crowded noisy place with only communal tables to sit at and still enjoy the meal and keep going back. Although I admit that I will try to avoid Taco Tuesday from now on.

It’s now become sort of a challenge to see who has a really good version of fish tacos. The other helpful feature is that they are usually pretty low-priced so a good weekday meal. In the continuing experiment we have tried the fish tacos at our regular Friday night restaurant, Quiet Woman. The quality of theirs is consistent with everything else there, that is to say, quite good. But they’re not the casual “Baja” style that I’m expecting. We recently had fish tacos at another place that bills itself as “healthy Mex”, La Salsa . The tacos were good, theirs had cheese as well as the other stuff but not great. Another regular restaurant we go to is California Pizza kitchen. And would you believe that they too recently added fish tacos to their menu? Perhaps we are on the cutting edge here. Realistically I don’t imagine that CPK’s version will be terribly authentic, but I would expect it to be good and might be worth trying once, anyway.

In the meantime, I will continue to make my pilgrimage every two weeks or so to Bear Flag for the best fish tacos around. Could I make these tacos? Probably - but then I would have to shop for tortillas, salsa, fresh fish and then grill the fish and assemble it all. But why when I know where to go for the perfect one? I just think that there are certain things better eaten out or cooked by someone else. For me, pizza would fall into this category as would most Asian food. Arbitrary, I know but it works for me.

Sunday, January 24, 2010

Make Someone Happy!

It’s January and I guess I shouldn’t be surprised that we have winter weather. Even with that understanding the weather the last week or so here has been unusual. We have had tornados, lots of rain, hail, high surf, lots of wind, thunder and lightning and otherwise inclement weather. Climate change if not global warming. We haven’t actually had every one of those occurrences here at our house but enough. It’s been cold and the rain has dominated every day for over a week. The gray weather is gloomy and not being able to get out and about adds to that. Thank heavens for the gym and those machines that have you rowing or walking to nowhere. At least I’m moving! And what would I do without my coffee place and all the "Pain du Monde family”.
This is good soup weather in my opinion and we have definitely indulged in it - but you can only eat so much soup. Comfort food is definitely needed and if anything qualifies as comforting, pasta does. I made this recipe last week and it was warm and delicious and made me feel much better, particularly when I added bread and a glass of wine. It made me happy and Steve was pretty appreciative too. It could work for you.
And looking on the positive side of things, I have noticed that days are starting to gradually get longer, and when it’s not dark and rainy there is a little more light at both ends of the day – YAY!!

Penne with roasted eggplant tomatoes and onions

1 large eggplant (about 1 ½ lbs) stem end cut off and discarded and cut into 1 inch cubes
1 tablespoon kosher salt plus extra for sprinkling on eggplant and seasoning
½ cup olive oil
2 lbs plum tomatoes seeded and coarsely chopped
1 large onion peeled and coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic pressed or finely minced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh marjoram oregano or basil leaves
1 lb dried penne
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Freshly grated pecorino romano cheese

Preheat the oven to 450. Place the cubed eggplant in a colander and sprinkle lightly with salt, toss. Allow eggplant to drain at least 30 minutes. Place eggplant onions tomatos, garlic and marjoram in a large roasting pan toss with the olive oil, stirring well to coat. Season with salt to taste. Place the roasting pan in the oven on the topmost rack;roast stirring occasionally until the onion and eggplant are slightly browned, 30 -40 minutes.

While the vegetables are roasting bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Cook penne according to package directions until tender. Drain, immediately add the pasta to the roasting pan with the vegetables. Add the parsley and extra virgin olive oil, toss well. Transfer to a large preheated serving dish. Serve with grated pecorino romano cheese.

Cheers!

Monday, December 21, 2009

Happy Holidays

It’s that time of the year; the annual blessing/chore of gifts. One of the things I have given out to friends and neighbors for many years are home baked goodies. And, like so many gifts, there is a lot of meaning and sentiment tied up in the package. So I agonize each year, trying to come up with something different and really,really wonderful. Of course I usually wait until December to do this so am in the midst of wonderful choices like boat parade parties, Holiday concerts, family dinners along with regular routines like volunteer shifts at Crystal Cove and the library bookstore. And when you add to that all the other preparations and pressures that the holidays bring something must give.

I wanted to do a Wensley cake this year but never got around to trying out the recipe for myself, never mind inflicting it upon unsuspecting recipients. Now it’s December 21st, Solstice, just to add a little more pressure, and I went to fall-back position and baked the oh so familiar and easy Wine Cakes. And, darn it, they are good! My in-house tester, Steve, proclaimed it so. So, that’s it for this year. I'm tempted to say that I took the easy route because I can say I have, ahem, brain holes. But actually, I usually do go the easy route, whenever possible.
This recipe makes 5 mini-loaf pans or two regular size loaf pans, making it ideal for small gifts.

Wine Cakes

1. box yellow cake mix
1 (3¾-ounce) box vanilla instant pudding mix
4 eggs
¾ cup vegetable oil
¾ cup sherry
1 teaspoon nutmeg
Powdered sugar
• Instructions:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine all ingredients except powdered sugar and beat for five minutes. Bake for 45 minutes or until toothpick comes out clean.
Sprinkle with powdered sugar and cool in pan about 15 minutes before turning them out onto a rack to finish cooling before wrapping in foil for giving.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!

Wednesday, December 9, 2009

My birthday

I had a birthday a week or so ago. I try not to think about the age associated with my birthdays, telling myself, as others also say, diplomatically, “it’s just a number” which sounds good but really, who are we kidding? It is more than just a number, it represents, better or worse, a whole lot of living.
One of the few good things about getting older is that you do start putting things, life, into some sort of perspective. I suspect the perspective is different for everyone or maybe the perspective is the same but the particulars are different. It comes down to what each of us gets enjoyment from and how we value it. After my life-changing health scare this last June I definitely think that it’s better to have a birthday than not. Getting older beats the alternative as they say.

The day started out sadly by going to a funeral for an good friend, not someone old but someone we have known for years. It’s a startling thing to have to do. We feel too young to have reached the age when your contemporaries die. Those sorts of rituals always make me reflect on life. Even more so after this last year.

The day ended up happier than it started; with dinner at one of my favorite restaurants - Sage

Sage has two locations, the original which is tucked away at a strip mall in Corona Del Mar, and this one which is Sage on the Coast located at Crystal Cove shopping center, at where else, the coast. Crystal Cove is a gorgeous 3 ½ mile stretch of state beach located between Newport and Laguna. It’s also 3miles from our house so that adds to the appeal.
The appeal is not just about the proximity though. It’s about the food which is always fresh, seasonal, interesting and delicious. And the setting is inviting and comfortable. Even though they are located at a coastal bluff they are set back enough so that there really is no ocean view as might be expected. However they have compensated by having a glorious patio that is open to a created garden and also has a large firplace for the mood. During the summer the garden is the attraction but this time of year the fireplace adds a level of coziness that is needed. During Christmas holidays it is enhanced by the traditional décor such as sparkling lights and trees, and greens and candles on the mantle. It feels very festive.

The setting could be enough to make it a good experience but then there are great appetizers and “small plates” which allow me to have a nice variety of things to eat without feeling like I’ve overdone it.

That night, for starters, Steve and I had a pear and gorgonzola pizza. They seem to know how to do pizza crust just right and the contrast of the flatbread style crust with the fruit and cheese and caramelized onions was perfect. We both had the same things so were able to admire it all and not be jealous of what the other one had.
Then we shared a granny smith and gorgonzola salad, if you like gorgonzola you can’t have too much! After that we each had a small plate with seared scallops and a shared plate of roasted cauliflower. It was a large hunk of cauliflower, maybe a half, roasted with some sort of chili. I roast cauliflower but I first cut it into florets and spread it out with red chili flakes and olive oil and sometimes dry mustard and capers. This was definitely a new way and I will try it sometime since we do love cauliflower.


Then to the grand finale. As an adult there usually is not a birthday cake as when you were a child, which is good because I think most adults aren’t crazy about cake, but that’s just my opinion. Anyway, these days when you make a big point of mentioning it is your birthday at a restaurant there is inevitably a small celebration dessert with a lighted candle. This one was a brioche bread pudding. Fabulous. It was all so perfect the dinner might well have been custom made for me.


A few days after my birthday was the 6 month anniversary of my brain anuerysm which happened on June 7, and susequent recovery. It was a rebirth of sorts so I felt a need to mark it in some way. Since the first responders are at the fire station in our neighborhood and it is close to Christmas, it seemed right to take them some home baked goodies to show my appreciation for their speed and skill in their part in saving my life. I baked 5 dozen cookies and wrapped them gaily for giving along with a written explanation of who I was and my outcome and dropped them off that day. The firefighter who answered the door seemed delighted to know the follow-up to my story. And, looked pretty happy about receiving the cookies too, so it felt satisfying to me. Along with the fact that baking on a cold rainy day is not a bad way to spend time.

I wish I could take credit for this recipe but everyone knows Nestles owns it. I have been making these cookies for years and everyone always loved them. There are other interesting holiday cookies you can make but no one doesn't like chocolate chip cookies!



Toll House Cookies



Level: Easy
• Prep: 15 min
• Cooking: 9 min
• Cooling time: 15 min cooling
• Yields: 60
Ingredients
• 2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 3/4 cup packed brown sugar
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 2 large eggs
• 2 cups (12-oz. pkg.) NESTLÉ® TOLL HOUSE® Semi-Sweet Chocolate Morsels
• 1 cup chopped nuts


Directions
PREHEAT oven to 375° F.

COMBINE flour, baking soda and salt in small bowl. Beat butter, granulated sugar, brown sugar and vanilla extract in large mixer bowl until creamy. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Gradually beat in flour mixture. Stir in morsels and nuts. Drop by rounded tablespoon onto ungreased baking sheets.

BAKE for 9 to 11 minutes or until golden brown. Cool on baking sheets for 2 minutes; remove to wire racks to cool completely.